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This area includes popular climbs accessible from the Garnet Canyon trail. The standout climbs included Irene's Arete and Open Book. In general, the climbs don't summit the peak, and instead climb features along the flanks of the peak above the Garnet Canyon trail.
Park at the Lupine Meadows trailhead in Grand Teton National Park. Follow the trail through the lowlands for about 1.5 miles, until it begins switchbacking. There will be a fork to your left for the Valley Trail - which you ignore. At around 3 miles, take the left fork heading into Garnet Canyon. The right fork keeps going to Amphitheater and Surprise lakes - a nice hike, and my preferred way to descend from Open Book.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Disappointment Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Disappointment Peak:
East Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, Alpine, 500'
Irene's Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches
Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'
Featured Route For Disappointment Peak
Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak
A Teton classic with great exposure, a short (by Teton standards) approach and simple descent. Not to be missed!The climb follows a beautiful crack/dihedral system just right of a huge arete. The bulk of the climbing is stellar finger-crack climbing on good rock with airy belays and spectacular exposure. Expect semihanging belays on most pitches.The climb faces south, so it does benefit from some solar warming.Pitch 1 - The guidebooks suggest two starts - either a direct 5.9 finger/handcrack ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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