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This area includes popular climbs accessible from the Garnet Canyon trail. The standout climbs included Irene's Arete and Open Book. In general, the climbs don't summit the peak, and instead climb features along the flanks of the peak above the Garnet Canyon trail.
Park at the Lupine Meadows trailhead in Grand Teton National Park. Follow the trail through the lowlands for about 1.5 miles, until it begins switchbacking. There will be a fork to your left for the Valley Trail - which you ignore. At around 3 miles, take the left fork heading into Garnet Canyon. The right fork keeps going to Amphitheater and Surprise lakes - a nice hike, and my preferred way to descend from Open Book.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Disappointment Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Disappointment Peak:
East Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine, 500'
Irene's Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches
Open Book 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'
Featured Route For Disappointment Peak
Irene's Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WY : Grand Teton National Park : Disappointment Peak
This route is, by itself, worth going to Jackson. Not a bad pitch or belay station on this climb.Pitch 1 (5.7) is marked by a tree located well to the climber's right of the arete proper. Straightforward to the belay at a good stance with a block. If traversing in from the Caves area, you won't start at the tree (nor will you be able to see the tree), you will probably rope up and traverse in about 40' above the tree then my suggestion is to make an intermediate belay as there is a flake ...[more] Browse More Classics in WY
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