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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Strutt, Roy Kligfield, Jack Hunt 1973
Page Views: 1,621
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Pulling the roof - Rich Goldstone.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Dis-Mantel is a short but sweet climb up the center of the "Dis-Mantel" block which sits to the left of the Raunchy area.

The "gear shift" knob broke off the 5.9 version of this route some time ago, and Dick Williams says the route is now 10b. For someone tall like myself, it doesn't make much difference, and the upper ceiling is still the crux.

To the left of Dis-Mantel is Dat-Mantel, 5.10, and to the right, starting around the corner is Kernmantle 5.8. I always wanted to add another route and call it Mickey Mantle, but couldn't squeeze in another line.

Start near the middle of the face and pass a bulge on its left side (new crux?). Angle right and over a tricky ceiling (old crux). A little higher get a directional for your second and traverse straight right to a tree from which you can belay or lower.


The Dis-Mantel block sits between Bitchy Virgin and Raunchy. Unnamed climbs are on the left side this block.


Single set of cams and a few nuts. Long slings.

Photos of Dis-Mantel Slideshow Add Photo
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Beginning the second crux - Rich Goldstone.
Beginning the second crux - Rich Goldstone.
first crux
first crux

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By monk
Nov 5, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?

BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder.
By brian ivins
Mar 12, 2009

Uhmmmm. 5.9+? Is this in the parallel universe where Gunks 5.9 + (=) 5.10? I got up to that first mantle and got shut down, not wanting to chance my gf catching me (and this was after three weeks climbing in Eldo and the Valley!)

Good gear though. Yellow alien below the first mantle if I remember right. Definitely one to try again when I feel stronger.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is harder than the second "roof" for short people which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.10a for 5'9" or taller
5.10c? for under 5'9"
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

First crux took me several falls to figure out (I'm 5'5"), the second roof is probably 5.8ish but a grunt.
By kenr
Aug 4, 2013

As Monk suggests, if shorter than 5ft8in w normal reach the lower crux is much harder - (perhaps more than 10b?). Not just finger strength, but a sort of awkward trick -- took me a lot of tries to work it out even after I saw it demonstrated.
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