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Blue Mesa Inlet
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Bat Crap TR 
Dirty Whore S 
Trad Route T 

Dirty Whore 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1998 Nick Strong, Craig Stanton
Page Views: 442
Submitted By: craig on Jan 6, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The 5.9 is the bolted route running up the left si...

Description 

Dirty Whore was really dirty when we first climbed it.

The crux is probably around the second bolt and is well protected. There is a moderately runout section above the last bolt, just before the anchor, this may be nervy for some climbers but this section is 5.5 to 5.7 and is on clean rock.

Descent is rappelling the route, you need a 200' rope. From this climb's anchor, you can also rappel down and to the left to find the anchor for the 5.10 top rope.

  • The adventurous have made this climb into two pitches either by going far right and up towards/over the big block, by staying straight and going up onto the slabby dihedral, or by veering left and going through roof-ish steep crack. In any case, this is trad climbing and the rock can be loose - especially look out for lots of loose junk on the slabs on top.


Location 

Find the base of the route by walking up towards the crag, staying high and left. Once on the ledges at the left of the crag you'll probably see the first bolt. If you miss it you'll find a large flat spot on the ledge (tent size) then look up for the first bolt back where you just came down from.


Protection 

6 bolts + slings on anchor.

Bringing something for your belayer to lean back on can be nice - the climb starts up on a smallish ledge. Slings and small cams work.



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