Dirty Sanchez  5.7 R

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Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Justin Johnsen on Feb 18, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Orangutan Buttress. A new line of bolts
went up in...

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Description 

A tall bolted route on the left middle section of Orangutan Buttress. A stiff start up a short shallow open book under the first bolt, followed by an interesting jaunt up the face. Three quarters of the way up the cliff is a roomy ledge with a pair of belay/rappel chains. Breaking this into two pitches as intended reduces rope drag and helps communication.

Location 

The only bolted line on Orangutan Buttress.

Protection 

Bolts (around 8?). Optional pair of belay/rappel chains 3/4ths of the way up the route. Another pair of chains at the top. Quickdraws are adequate, but produce rope drag. Extend a couple of alpine draws instead and it runs more smoothly.

I've heard this was climbed before the bolts went up in 2011, but it looks like it'd be pretty runout.

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BETA PHOTO: Brett near the top of pitch 1 of the new sport rou...