Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the corner just right of Astroprojection. Either start at the base on the road or up on a ledge. The first few moves are easy, but the climbing begins at a couple of fantastic pockets. Involves some strenuous liebacking and some fun reaches. Smear those footholds...the rock is surprisingly grippy. Higher up on the route avoid pulling on suspect horns, they aren't needed anyway. Set up a trad anchor at the top, curving to the right; or angle left to the anchors of Astroprojection. We used this climb as an exit route at the end of the day.
We toproped this climb using the anchors of Astroprojection. If trad leading, I'd suggest a set of stoppers and microcams, though there are some placements for large gear. I'd be wary of slinging the horns for which this climb may be named.
Astroprojection climbs the face, Dirty Rotten Horr...
|Comments on Dirty Rotten Horror
|By Nathan Fisher|
Apr 9, 2006
Tried to lead this today, and I didn't like the first three pieces I placed, so I backed off. Save it for another day.
Jun 7, 2006
fun moves laying back to grab the bucket at the roof. Gear does look a little thin and flaring though.
Jan 29, 2009
Good place to practice easy aid solo.
|By Daniel Winder|
Nov 29, 2012
There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied.
|By Jacob McLaws|
Jun 24, 2013
Is rapping down from Astroprojection ok for this route? Then using Astro for top roping?
Jun 24, 2013
Well let's see....
1. Try reading the route description, or
2. Note where the anchors on Astroprojection are, surmise the fall line from them (remembering that gravity pulls things straight down), and maybe set a directional if needed.
I ain't no engineer, but I think either of those options will work.