Dirty Rotten Horror 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Charles Konopa on Sep 8, 2005 |
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Expect a bit of this on this line...
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Description Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the corner just right of Astroprojection. Either start at the base on the road or up on a ledge. The first few moves are easy, but the climbing begins at a couple of fantastic pockets. Involves some strenuous liebacking and some fun reaches. Smear those footholds...the rock is surprisingly grippy. Higher up on the route avoid pulling on suspect horns, they aren't needed anyway. Set up a trad anchor at the top, curving to the right; or angle left to the anchors of Astroprojection. We used this climb as an exit route at the end of the day.
Protection We toproped this climb using the anchors of Astroprojection. If trad leading, I'd suggest a set of stoppers and microcams, though there are some placements for large gear. I'd be wary of slinging the horns for which this climb may be named.
Astroprojection climbs the face, Dirty Rotten Horr...
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| Comments on Dirty Rotten Horror |
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By Nathan Fisher Apr 9, 2006
| Tried to lead this today, and I didn't like the first three pieces I placed, so I backed off. Save it for another day. |
By Tea Jun 7, 2006
| fun moves laying back to grab the bucket at the roof. Gear does look a little thin and flaring though. |
By zoso Jan 29, 2009
| Good place to practice easy aid solo. |
By Daniel Winder Nov 29, 2012
| There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied. |
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