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Upper Broadway
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Dirty Old Man 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Charlie Fowler, Jon Harris, Dave Bushman, 1973
Page Views: 1,241
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 3, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: First pitch of DOM.

Description 

P1: Climb up the short wall to a small ledge beneath the large corner/flake. Climb the corner/flake to a good ledge. You can move up and a bit right to the wall (start of P2) and build a gear belay or move further right to a belay at bolts. If you use the bolts, beware of rope drag.

P2: From the bolts, move left and climb toward a steep, narrow, right-facing corner. Climb the corner to the Summit Ledge. Beware of loose rock at the top. A large piece (#4 Camalot) is helpful at the beginning of the pitch.

Location 

Left side of Upper Broadway Ledge about 40 feet right of the Upper Broadway Chimney. Look for an obvious left-facing corner/flake that lies about 10 feet off the ground. The right side of this flake forms Frosted Flake.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Larger hexes and medium cams (#2/3/4) helpful.

Bolts at the end of P1 if you move about 20 ft left or build a gear anchor; bolted rap rings at the end of P2 behind the old, dying pine tree where the slings with rap rings used to be.


Photos of Dirty Old Man Slideshow Add Photo
Second pitch of DOM.
Second pitch of DOM.
Pitch 1
Pitch 1

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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 3, 2011

This is a very consistent 5.6 route. Fun, pumpy moves on P1 and an interesting P2 with some decent exposure.

  • **NEW*** As of JUL2012, rap rings have been installed at the top of P2 in the wall behind the old pine tree. I noticed these today and cut the slings off the dying pine tree.