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Chez's Chimney variation 
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Dirty Little Secret 
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Dirty Little Secret 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Rah Herrington on Apr 29, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Dirty Little Secret climb.

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It looks simple but gets tricky as you move farther up, since the chimney opening becomes smaller as you near the top of the climb. There are some nice flakes and crimps on the inside face to help you move up. Be prepared to get really dirty in this one.


To the right of Everleigh Club Crack & Girls Named Sue there is a large flake in the rock that hides a nice little chimney. In the "Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake" book it is directly left of an unnamed 5.9 route that moves up a dihedral (marked as #22 for the area). If you don't have this guide it is about 10ft or so to the left of Ptooey.
The start is fairly obvious. You step up into the chimney and start making your way up. It can be topped out and you can walk back down or you can rappel back down as well.


This has been lead, but the gear used for it is currently unknown. If you TR it there are places, such as trees, for anchors at the top.

Photos of Dirty Little Secret Slideshow Add Photo
Rah H. at the start of Dirty Little Secret.
Rah H. at the start of Dirty Little Secret.
Rah H. moving up chimney.
Rah H. moving up chimney.
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