Dirty Little Secret  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Greg Murphy and Bruce Morris (March '88) Submitted By:  Bryan G on Feb 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: A not-so-good photo of Dirty Little Secret

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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>> Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice. As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open. See the following website for more info: www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

It's not as dirty as the name implies, but it does have a couple bushes growing out of the crack which will shower you with pollen as you climb past them. This isn't a hidden gem or anything but it's worth getting on if you're waiting for a party to finish up on Anticipation or Supplication. Not a bad climb to practice 5.9 OW technique, or you can lieback. It'd probably get climbed everyday if it was at Swan Slab.

At the top of the crack belay on the large ledge to the left. Then make a short downclimb to the ground. Hike down the hill and back to your stuff.

Location 

This is the farthest left route on the main Arch Rock formation. Follow the trail at the base of the cliff about 70 feet past the Anticipation/Supplication recess and look for the 4 to 5 inch crack in a corner.

Protection 

A couple #4 Camalots and a #5 will protect the bulk of the climbing. Also bring a couple hand sized pieces for behind a chock-stone up higher and a redirect for the belay.