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 ADVANCED
Rebel Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amy Is No Help T,TR 
Body English T 
Dirty Girl T,S 
Floppy Boot Stamp T 
Large Crack T 
Large Crack (Mabe's version) T 
Learner's Permit T 
Make It So T,S 
Mama Says Knock You Out T 
Southpaw S 
Upper Cut T 

Dirty Girl 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: Jay Samuelson on Jun 2, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The open cold shuts at the anchor.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This has some fun and interesting 5.8 face climbing. It is a good warm-up for the crag.

Location 

On the far left side of Rebel Wall, there's an obvious 5.5 chimney to the left. It's the only bolt line on the left side of the crag.

Protection 

There are four bolts and a fixed pin at the top of the 5.8 section, then gear for the last 20 or so odd feet to a pair of open shuts.


Photos of Dirty Girl Slideshow Add Photo
The start of the climb.  You can see the first bolt.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb. You can see the first bol...
Leo ascends Dirty Girl.
Leo ascends Dirty Girl.
The pin, you can back it up with a cam in the horizontal crack.
BETA PHOTO: The pin, you can back it up with a cam in the hori...
Jay.
Jay.

Comments on Dirty Girl Add Comment
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By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 2, 2010

If anyone knows the correct name of this route, and possible FA info, please let me know and I'll correct it on here.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I listed as "Unknown" in the book. More like 5.9, but maybe splitting hairs. Someone climbing at the grade may want a small nut getting to the first bolt. A TCU can be used getting to the second bolt. The shallow pin can also be backed up by a TCU. Other gear I used were a #2 and #3 Camalot for the upper bits. The anchors are open cold-shuts, but not open enough to drop your rope in.

Fun route. Some of the suspect dirty rock was actually surprisingly solid.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

She's now a relatively clean girl. Doug cleaned a little remaining rotten rock, but most of the rock was quite good despite it's questionable appearance. Getting to the first bolt is probably the trickiest part.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that getting to the first bolt is the crux. This route should be to the left of Large Crack and to the right of Learner's Permit.