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This has some fun and interesting 5.8 face climbing. It is a good warm-up for the crag.
On the far left side of Rebel Wall, there's an obvious 5.5 chimney to the left. It's the only bolt line on the left side of the crag.
There are four bolts and a fixed pin at the top of the 5.8 section, then gear for the last 20 or so odd feet to a pair of open shuts.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the climb. You can see the first bol...
BETA PHOTO: The pin, you can back it up with a cam in the hori...
BETA PHOTO: The open cold shuts at the anchor.
|By Jay Samuelson|
From: Denver CO
Jan 2, 2010
If anyone knows the correct name of this route, and possible FA info, please let me know and I'll correct it on here.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
I listed as "Unknown" in the book. More like 5.9, but maybe splitting hairs. Someone climbing at the grade may want a small nut getting to the first bolt. A TCU can be used getting to the second bolt. The shallow pin can also be backed up by a TCU. Other gear I used were a #2 and #3 Camalot for the upper bits. The anchors are open cold-shuts, but not open enough to drop your rope in.
Fun route. Some of the suspect dirty rock was actually surprisingly solid.
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
May 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
She's now a relatively clean girl. Doug cleaned a little remaining rotten rock, but most of the rock was quite good despite it's questionable appearance. Getting to the first bolt is probably the trickiest part.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I agree that getting to the first bolt is the crux. This route should be to the left of Large Crack and to the right of Learner's Permit.