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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Gerdie 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Scheuer and Jim Andress, 1963 FFA: John Hudson, 1964
Page Views: 2,040
Submitted By: Bob Hayes on Aug 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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hands are still a bit thin after the crux

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Description 

Up the middle of the face of the Herdie Gerdie block. Thin face moves between horizontals, with a line of fixed pins to point the way. Tree rap station/anchor on top can be backed up with gear. This is very fun climb despite being short. There is an 11a variation to the right, Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat), that is seldom led and often toproped. Both are quality routes.


Location 

Just before the Uberfall, in the center of a huge block that's 20' off the carriage road, and just before Bunny.


Protection 

Bring a few screamers if yer fat like me; those old fixed pins don't look so hot. Real small cams are helpful to back up the pins. Otherwise a few small-to-medium cams is all ya need to fill the remaining horizontals.



Photos of Dirty Gerdie Slideshow Add Photo
Tricia at the start
Tricia at the start
Jeff Arliss at a balancy stand-up move.
Jeff Arliss at a balancy stand-up move.
just out of reach
just out of reach
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Looking up Dirty Gerdie
Comments on Dirty Gerdie Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 20, 2011

I took a whip on this today. I backed up the top pin with a green alien and took an inadvertant 12 footer. All air. I thought I was through the crux when I came upon some slopey holds with not so great feet. Oops...off I skittered. It's a tad run out after the crux, you can get some crappy gear off to the right, but, I sure wouldn't want to fall on it.

By S. Neoh
Aug 21, 2011

Oh, yeah, I remember those holds and the runout well. This route deserves more stars. And maybe a PG rating, hard to say for sure.
8+, hmmm, only at The Gunks!