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> Shannon Falls
> Shannon Falls Wall
Dirty Dicky
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 82
votes
Routes in Shannon Falls Wall
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19th nervous breakdown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aladdin's Magic Lamp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Austrom, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cafe Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friends and Family T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Interstellar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liftoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Local Girls Are Bad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Local Heroes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Say-Noth-Ka Arête S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywalker EPB T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spirit of Squamish, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Split Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jan Wasylyk, Bryce Bateman, Paul McSorly - 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,693 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roberts on Jun 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Slanting left, wider route that branches out left from the start of Cardhu Crack and blazes its own less fun trail. When I did it last week it was quite wet inside the crack, with thriving bryophyte ecosystems deep within. Climb Cardhu instead if it's an option.
Oh, and watch the ends of your rope when you lower as the route's pretty long (shorter than Cardhu, but the ground below the anchors of Dirty Dickey is lower than it is under Cardhu). You might want to lower off to the right, even with a 70m.
Oh, and watch the ends of your rope when you lower as the route's pretty long (shorter than Cardhu, but the ground below the anchors of Dirty Dickey is lower than it is under Cardhu). You might want to lower off to the right, even with a 70m.
Location
Start as for Cardhu, climber's right of the crag. Branch left to the obvious wide crack line after three or four meters.
Protection
It gets wide, but you don't need wide gear because when it's wide it's kind of flary and unprotectable anyways. I have an inkling that if you were to take up a nut tool and scrape away at the non-vascular plant life you'd be able to place some bomber thin gear (blue/purple metolius?) in the back of the wide. Try it. Worst comes to worst you cleaned out the crack and performed a public service to all.
You're looking at a rack ranging from fingers to hands. There's bolts and rap rings at the top
You're looking at a rack ranging from fingers to hands. There's bolts and rap rings at the top
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