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Grunt your way up the West Chimney to the "Red Ledge" described elsewhere. Traverse South (right) underneath T-1 and face climb pleasant but somewhat fractured rock, and then the arete, directly to the sharp summit of Tower One. It is two pitches with a 50 meter rope, but it could be done in 1 long pitch with a 70 meter rope.
Hike up the West gully past the start for Yellow Spur and look for the prominent West Chimney. That is start of the climb.
Standard Eldorado rack including some small wired nuts and a few smaller cams. No anchor at top; use gear anchor.
Looking down the final (3rd) pitch of Dirty Deed. ...
Last pitch of Dirty Deed. Spring, 1967.
Roger Vohs, at the anchor.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 8, 2010
I am confused. I thought Dirty Deed went up the gully between T1 and Lumpe Tower (added later - above the Red Ledge).
Edit: apparently, I've been confused along with a bunch of others. The gully is apparently Dirty Deed Chimney. Thanks, Dave, for the clarification from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 12, 2011
Leo-I've climbed this route at least 7-8 times, and it had been pointed out to me by several other "well known" climbers at the time. The W. Chimney is the 1st lead of the Dirty Deed.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 13, 2011
The Dirty Deed leaves the West Chimney at the Red Ledge, and the climbing resumes about 20 feet to the right on the clean, steep face. There are plentiful holds and cracks to provide protection opportunities, and really great views. One of the most scenic routes in Eldorado. It then follows easy climbing to a ridge-spur, to climber's right facing rock, to the Yellow Spur summit.
|By Rick Pratt|
Jul 30, 2011
Just for the record this is what Rossiter says: Page 261 #33:
"Not recommended. Often used as a rappel route.... Traverse right along The Red Ledge to the bottom of the gully between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (the Dirty Deed Chimney). Follow this chimney to the top."
I may need to buy Levin's book.
|By Scott McMahon|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2012
Summit rap anchors have the worst rope pull from friction I've ever seen. Expect difficult pulls the entire rope length.