Dirty Deed 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | unknown, but probably in the 1950s |
| Season: | Anytime |
| Submitted By: | Rodger Raubach on Sep 8, 2010 |
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Roger Vohs following the final pitch of Dirty Deed...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description Grunt your way up the West Chimney to the "Red Ledge" described elsewhere. Traverse South (right) underneath T-1 and face climb pleasant but somewhat fractured rock, and then the arete, directly to the sharp summit of Tower One. It is two pitches with a 50 meter rope, but it could be done in 1 long pitch with a 70 meter rope.
Location Hike up the West gully past the start for Yellow Spur and look for the prominent West Chimney. That is start of the climb.
Protection Standard Eldorado rack including some small wired nuts and a few smaller cams. No anchor at top; use gear anchor.
Looking down the final (3rd) pitch of Dirty Deed. ...
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Last pitch of Dirty Deed. Spring, 1967.
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Roger Vohs, at the anchor.
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Sep 8, 2010
| I am confused. I thought Dirty Deed went up the gully between T1 and Lumpe Tower (added later - above the Red Ledge).
Edit: apparently, I've been confused along with a bunch of others. The gully is apparently Dirty Deed Chimney. Thanks, Dave, for the clarification from Steve Levin's excellent guidebook. |
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 12, 2011
| Leo-I've climbed this route at least 7-8 times, and it had been pointed out to me by several other "well known" climbers at the time. The W. Chimney is the 1st lead of the Dirty Deed. |
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 13, 2011
| Leo-
The Dirty Deed leaves the West Chimney at the Red Ledge, and the climbing resumes about 20 feet to the right on the clean, steep face. There are plentiful holds and cracks to provide protection opportunities, and really great views. One of the most scenic routes in Eldorado. It then follows easy climbing to a ridge-spur, to climber's right facing rock, to the Yellow Spur summit. |
By Rick Pratt
From: Denver
Jul 30, 2011
| Just for the record this is what Rossiter says: Page 261 #33:
"Not recommended. Often used as a rappel route.... Traverse right along The Red Ledge to the bottom of the gully between Lumpe Tower and Tower One (the Dirty Deed Chimney). Follow this chimney to the top."
I may need to buy Levin's book. |
By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2012
| Summit rap anchors have the worst rope pull from friction I've ever seen. Expect difficult pulls the entire rope length. |
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