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At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.
Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.
Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.
A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard move...
BETA PHOTO: View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper...
not a must do for your first time back on slab in ...
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 4, 2007
Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice.
|By Ross Purnell|
Apr 9, 2010
I don't know why this is only a two-star climb. It's one of the best ways to get to Tree Ledge.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Did anybody notice the secret hold when the crack narrows down too far to hold onto?
|By Jonathan Dull|
From: Boone, NC
Feb 18, 2013
Great climb to gain the tree ledge when other climbs like entrance crack, u-slot, and block route are taken. Also, this provides a bit or a challenge then the previously mention climbs. Like many routes at Stone Mountain I found that C3's (red and yellow) protect the thinner sections of this climb very well.
|By Emil Briggs|
Nov 4, 2013
Looks like the first tree that people sling for pro has seen better days.
|By Jake Jones|
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Nov 4, 2013
I agree Emil. It's a shame too because it's really not needed for pro. The crack under the arete right there takes good pro and there is good pro just after the tree as well. I have a feeling though that the beating the tree is taking is as much from people resting on it and using it to hold onto as from slinging it.