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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks 
Banana Breath 
Between The Ways 
Block Route 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home 
Captain Crunch 
Closer to the Heart 
Crystal Lizard 
Dirty Crack 
Dixie Crystals 
Electric Boobs 
Entrance Crack 
Fantastic 
Father Knows Best 
Fleet Feet 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 
Grand Funk Railroad 
Great Arch, The 
Great White Way 
Mercury's Lead 
No Alternative 
Pandora's Way 
Peer Pressure 
Pulpit, The 
Rainy Day Women 
Rice Krispies 
Storm in a Teacup 
Strawberry Preserves 
U Slot 
White Way Direct 
Yardarm 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Crack 

5.8

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
FA: Don Hunley, Jim McEver, Reid Thompson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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One of my friends on dirty crack.

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Description 

At North Carolina's home of scary runout slab climbing, Dirty Crack is one of a handful of routes that's well-protected from start to finish. That doesn't mean it's easy; there's some thin moves midway up that might make you want to grab one of the trees growing out of the crack. "Dirty Crack" may have been an apt name in the past, but in fact this is a clean route that's a worthwhile lead.

Starting at the obvious right-facing dihedral, follow the thinning crack up past a couple of trees to the Tree Ledge.


Location 

Starts below the far right end of the Tree Ledge at a right-facing dihedral. 10' right of Entrance Crack. Rap on two ropes from rap rings at the top of Father Knows Best or any of the other Tree Ledge rap anchors.


Protection 

A good range of gear up to 4" (big pieces mainly near the start); there's also trees to sling. Anchor to trees at the top.



Photos of Dirty Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard moves are past midway just below the last small tree.

Breanna seconding me on Dirty Crack. The hard move...

View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper section of Dirty Crack looks like.

BETA PHOTO: View from Pulpit P1 anchor, showing what the upper...

not a must do for your first time back on slab in ten years.

not a must do for your first time back on slab in ...


Comments on Dirty Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Great climb, almost totally out of character with the rest of Stone Mountain. A tenuous move or two where the crack is really thin adds to the spice.

By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Apr 9, 2010

I don't know why this is only a two-star climb. It's one of the best ways to get to Tree Ledge.

By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.8

Did anybody notice the secret hold when the crack narrows down too far to hold onto?

By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Feb 18, 2013

Great climb to gain the tree ledge when other climbs like entrance crack, u-slot, and block route are taken. Also, this provides a bit or a challenge then the previously mention climbs. Like many routes at Stone Mountain I found that C3's (red and yellow) protect the thinner sections of this climb very well.