|By Eric Swanson|
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.8+ X
Climbed this route on Saturday evening. Literally hundreds of pounds of rock/dirt/dust came off just trying to get a solid hold. Hold after hold broke off or rolled out of the crack. The only real protection is low on the route. After the 20+ ft mark, nothing will really stick. The one exception to this is the roof block, which is totally detached and balancing on the opposing side of the crack. After wiggling my way past the roof and seeing this, as well as a generally unprotectable final 20+ feet, I don't know that i would climb this again. As i am on a mission to climb every route at redwing (easier than 12b/c ish) i had to, but only recommend to someone training for a skechy alpine route or looking for an adventure.
Honestly, it should be said that an inspection of the block/roof should be inspected on toprope prior to any future ascent.