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Dirty Black Nightmare 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: George Perkins on Apr 18, 2010
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This contrived 3-bolt variation direct start to Black Streak is neither dirty, nor frightening. It's clean, and the 5.11 has closely spaced bolts.

Begin just left of the usual Black Streak/Clean Green Dream start (the start is a crack that is Cryin' in the Rain, which continues up and left). Decide when to leave the crack system you're in and face climb between the bolts. Join the regular line of Black Streak, and climb straight up the streak, which has a couple of short sections of 5.10. You'll likely want 1-2 pieces of gear for the section shared with Black Streak, and to build an anchor.


Location 

Direct starting variation left of Black Streak.

Scramble/rappel off the east end of the rock.


Protection 

6 bolts, plus a few cams & nuts to 1".



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