This climb is the fourth from the right on the wall, past Sands of Blood on the junky-looking blunt arete, Apostasy, and Solace.
Descend 150 meters from the parking lot to the wall and walk to a line of bolts perhaps 7 meters left or the right-hand edge of the main buttress. A line of 4 bolts leads to chains up top.
The climbing is mostly positive, but a crux up top is a little awkward and thin, so it might not be the best warm up, particularly for shorter climbers. I found this route just a little more difficult than its 5.10a neighbor.
A rack of draws, plus something up top for the chain anchor.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Jan 18, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Finish was exciting, with a delicate sloper just before the chains.
From: Sandy, Ut
Jan 22, 2008
Fun route. Crux at the anchor
|By Hyrum j. C|
From: St george, ut
Sep 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great climb. easier crux at about half way up and then a harder crux at the top. get to the horizontal crack like thing and traverse to the right a little bit and then go up to the crimpers and clip from there. i almost always end up grabbing the chains to clip this one.
From: santa clara, utah
Aug 12, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I found the end of this climb hard. I have climbed it a couple of times now, and if you go left or right, the holds get pretty crimpy near the chains. I like the finish of tombstone bullets much better. I'd call this 10b, because of the finish.