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 ADVANCED
West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
Routes Sorted
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Blind Date S 
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 
Glamorama S 
Misanthrope, The S 
Only Human S 
Pummeling, The S 
Repulsion S 
Sandman S 
Tommy's 11+ S 

Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Bill Launder
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jan 24, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is the first, or leftmost (southern) route in the Gothodrome itself. It climbs up the tan/yellow rounded buttress on the left edge of the cave on gently overhanging, sandy stone, with a fair bit of choss. (In fact, Dave Pegg, who originally bolted the line, was so unimpressed with the sand factor that he unscrewed his bolts and hangers from the holes.)

    There is a belay bolt drilled into a block at the base of the route. I recommend you use it, as the sloping hillside and lack of a good stance mean you will be yanked *hard* into the wall if the climber falls off.

    Make a leftward traverse to the first bolt (5.7, a little sketch), then climb the grey slab past another bolt, climbing carefully across the ledge/choss band where the slab hits the wall. Move up the wall past six more bolts on good, deep pockets, on stone that gets better the higher you climb, to a double-bolt anchor. Dave had bolted the route to go a bit higher (hence the bolt and bail biner you'll see above the anchor), but it ends at a pretty natural stance now as is.

    You absolutely need a 60-meter rope for this one, as you lower out into space. Airy and sort of "out-there" for the grade.

    Protection 

    10 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).


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