Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct)  5.10a/b

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Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  G. Dimai, C. Degasper, G. Ghedina, and A. Verzi 1933 Season:  Spring through Fall Submitted By:  Rodger Raubach on Jan 1, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Originally done with etriers as a mixed free and aid climb, but has evolved into a magnificent free climbing testpiece in the Cinque Torri. This route shares the first two pitches of Via Miriam. From the second belay stance of that route continue upwards for another 50 feet of easy (UIAA Grade III, 5.4-5.5) but exposed climbing to a double bolt anchor. The fourth pitch is extremely exposed and traverses left following several fixed pitons and a few bolts befor striking directly upwards on a slightly diagonaling line to the right following several more bolts; this pitch is difficult free climbing (UIAA IV+, V+, and finally VI; It may also be aided at A-0. This is probably hard 5.9 if done all free). The belay is another multi bolt anchor, and pitch five is another very exposed but ascending traverse to the left which follows a line of fixed gear (UIAA Grade V-, or 5.6/5.7). Pitch six is pretty much straight up, and again follows fixed protection of pitons and bolts. (UIAA Grade VI-, or 5.8+). Pitch seven is the crux and is a thin crack; again fixed protection (UIAA VI+, 5.10a/b or A-1). The final pitch is much easier and has several chickenheads or threads for protection (UIAA III). Although it would seem possible to link pitches with a longer rope, breaking this into several shorter ones certainly avoids issues of excessive rope drag due to the devious line sometimes followed.

Descent: Same as Via Miriam.

Location 

Same start as the Via Miriam.

Protection 

Mostly fixed protection, with many pitons and bolts. It would be prudent to bring a light rack of wired stoppers and some small to medium cams in addition to many quickdraws and a few longer slings for threads.