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This is a variation of the Normalweg, or standard route, to the top of Jungturm.
Normalweg begins near the southwest corner of the tower just a few feet right of the Kirschnerweg crack and does a long traverse left along a ledge to reach a large tree on the west face. Direkter Normalweg climbs straight up the west face to reach this tree instead, avoiding the licheny traverse.
P1: Climb straight up steep and even slightly overhung rock with good holds to the big tree. There is a large bolt here.
P2: Continue up from the tree and tackle a bulgy overhang with a crack through it, the route's crux. Look for some good handholds inside the crack but the bottom line is this obstacle requires some extremely awkward moves. Pick your way up generally easier rock to the summit.
This route is located near the center of Jungturm's west face. Look for a large tree on a ledge about 30 feet off the ground.
To descend, rappel down the west side from a large bolt near the summit. A 60 meter rope will get you down in one go but there are two other obvious rappel bolts along the way if you need them.
Medium sized gear to 3 inches.
|By Dominic Meiser|
Jul 6, 2011
Fun route with awkward squeeze move through overhanging offwidth on second pitch. Some of the flakes on the first pitch didn't seem super solid to me. Could be sketchy when the sandstone is soaked.