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Berchtesgadener Hochthron
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Direkte Gamsalmplatte S 

Direkte Gamsalmplatte 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Sep 26, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The general run of the route. Photo by Andi Riesne...

Description 

Pleasure climbing at its best, this route has a little of everything. It's mostly slab (as the route's name implies), but the 10th and 11th pitches offer up more vertical and slightly overhanging climbing.
The crux is on pitch 4 and climbs thin side-pulls to reach a juggy ledge. It can also be aided (and is therefore obviously well protected) or dynoed. The rest of the pitches typically range between UIAA 4 and 5 (5.5 - 5.8), though there are several easier pitches, including an unprotected walk across some scree and grass (pitch 7).
Get an early start because the approach isn't easy and going back down in the dark with one headlamp shared between two people sucks.
The climb gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, so plan your ascent based on the time of year.
For a pretty good topo, go to bergsteigen.at/de/touren.aspx?... and click on the TOPO icon right under the photo.

Approach 

From the Scheibenkaser, head to the right on the trail which takes you up to the Hochthron Klettersteig. After walking down this trail for about 15 minutes, you'll reach a scree field with a bunch of large blocks on the right and across from this is a big orange sand slide. As soon as possible, cross above the orange sand and over to the grassy saddle. (Up to this point, you can chart your course to here from the Scheibenkaser). Once you've reached the grassy saddle, head down a little and across the field trending toward the obvious water-flow between the two peaks (see picture). The base of the route is marked and is about 5m to the right of the beginning of Doriweg, which is also marked and has a little sling hanging from the belay bolt at the base.

Descent 

You have two options. I've only done option 1, so please excuse any errors in the description if you choose option 2.
1) From the top of the route in the grassy slope, you should be able to make out a path which goes downhill back toward the Scheibenkaser. This path requires lots of scrambling and sure-footedness, as a slip could result in falling off the mountain, which could be fatal. Follow this path which eventually joins the approach trail at the scree mentioned in the approach description.
2) Walk on the unmarked miner's path up to the plateau and then along the path which has signs indicating the direction to the Gipfel (peak) as well as the Stöhrhaus. From there you can follow the hiker's trail to the Scheibenkaser.

Protection 

If you're considering linking pitches, you should probably bring about 16 quickdraws and a few long slings, as well as 70m double ropes. Each pitch is well protected with bolts. A helmet is an absolute must as there is a lot of loose rock.


Photos of Direkte Gamsalmplatte Slideshow Add Photo
The approach and descent (in yellow) as well as general run of the two routes (in red). <br />Photo by Axel Jentzsch-Rabl
BETA PHOTO: The approach and descent (in yellow) as well as ge...

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