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Unsorted Routes:

Directpissima 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Lennox & Tony Sartin, 2002
Page Views: 1,420
Submitted By: Art Morimitsu on Mar 7, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Unknown climber in the Johnny Can't Lead section.

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Description 

A direct finish to Kathmandu, at the third bolt head left then continue up the steep face using small pockets, hard pulling.


Protection 

6 bolts (3 shared with Kathmandu), anchors



Photos of Directpissima Slideshow Add Photo
Extension of the right red line is Directpissima
Extension of the right red line is Directpissima
Joe high up on the Directpissima Extension
Joe high up on the Directpissima Extension
Comments on Directpissima Add Comment
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By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Jun 9, 2010

The anchors of this route have been extended and it has a few more than 6 bolts, it certainly seems like one of the longest/tallest routes I've climbed in Malibu now. The new extension seems a bit sharp and chossy in places, but all the holds I used on it seemed ok and the upper section is kind of cool to climb in. I think both the climber and the belay need to pay attention in case that upper section isn't all that stable, it would be a shame if something came off and hurt someone. Overall - one of my now more favorite routes out there due the length and the fun of that upper section.

By kipp.fo
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 30, 2013

I agree with Michael. The picture currently displayed shows the anchors after 3 bolts, but those no longer exist. 8 draws are now needed before moving into 3-4 fixed chain draws and then anchors. It isn't that chossy/sharp, and the belayer is protected on that section because of the overhang. Pretty cool upper section, very steep. I'm saying more in the 11c range compared to the surrounding climbs.

By Joe Wysznski
From: Ventura County, CA
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Finally gave this route/ extension a try. It's around 80-90 feet total with 11 bolts ( 3 are fixed chain draws). I'd say its around 11a/b. So the middle section is pretty chossy and there is tons of potential to knock something off but it does get better up higher near the chain draws. Be careful on this one. Overall the top part is fun but having to climb the chossy middle part takes away from the quality.

By Chris Bracamonte
Jan 31, 2014

Fun extension to an already fun kathmandu. Choss is pretty bad in the chimney. My friend stemmed out to the right side and a basketball sized chunk broke off and almost landed on the belayer and other climbers waiting to climb. Just wanted to throw some extra caution to the wind about this route to avoid any potential disasters.