Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Kor and LaGrange, 1960 FFA: R. Briggs and Reveley, 1974
Page Views: 24,705 total · 89/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


159 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral.

P1: Climb the inside of the corner to a belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above (5.7-5.8). (If you climb outside flakes further to the right you will be in 5.9-10d terrain).

P2: Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake (5.9).

P3: Lieback up the flake and into a a 9+ squeeze protected by a couple bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.

P4: Climb up the widish crack to the crux overlap/roof, keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack to the top (5.10a). This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. One can continue via the N. Face at Chasm View or...

Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot.

Photos

loading