|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 900', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960|
|Submitted By:||Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002|
|Comments on Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 5, 2002
|My old Walt Fricke guidebook has FA listed as Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960|
By Doug Dakins
Apr 5, 2002
|Did this route (or a variation of it) last summer. We climbed a fun roof above the 4th pitch at maybe 5.8. We started our 4th pitch from a small ledge above an easy face (sounds similar to Leo's description. Our 2nd pitch went slightly right through a small roof above the old manky bolt than back left into the left-facing dihedral and basically up onto a slab - full 60M pitch to a ledge system.) Look up and to the left and locate a 10-15 foot triangle looking roof. Angle up and left to the base of the roof. There is a crack with good ledges up to the the last step. Reach for some good but smaller holds on the slab and pull over onto the slab. My recollection is the pro is at your waist (good, medium-sized cam) After the roof head right and set a belay. From here, we headed straight for 1 1/4 pitches to the top with a 60m rope.|
By Julius Beres
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.
The descent wasn't horrible to the west, but also wasn't pleasant.
(The heavy precipitation in April and May of this year may have contributed to the vegetation in cracks, the loose little flakes, and the overgrown walk off...).
I saw this climb listed as one of the "100 favorite local natural climbs" at Neptune so I decided to try it. I'd much rather do almost any climb at Lumpy rather than go here, so I don't understand why this one gets classic status....
On the plus side, we were the only ones on the rock all day, so if you are looking for a place less crowded than Lumpy with the same amazing views....