This pleasant & apparently popular route ascends an indistinct line just L of the nadir of the face of this difficult-to-decipher slab. 25-30min hike from the Fall River Road Visitor's Center. Nice south exposure for fall climbing. This route is left of Indirect, and starts at the same place as Lubrication. Decent rock here but difficult route finding. Perhaps it doesn't matter once you start the route (see description & comments on Indirect, 7). Start just right of a large slab.
P1. Ascend a left facing dihedral and connect 2 other L- facing dihedrals to a good ledge. Some loose bits of rock here. Angling L will put you on Lubrication 9 vs.
P2. Continue in L-facing dihedral and bear R at its top to a ledge with a large, blunt flake pointing L. Here you are above and R of the crux pitch of Lubrication.
P3. Find a pin and follow a large L-angling, L-facing dihedral to a second pin (loose). Then either pop up and R at the point of least resistance shortly above this pin (crux) [#3Friend useful to back it up], and on to a slab OR continue up & L and over the roof/overlap at the top of this dihedral. Continue up face holds up and L, then up and R and find a belay. You might feel a bit lost now.
P4. Angle up and right, following your instinct for a line past 2 R-facing, R-angling dihedrals, up a slab, over an overlap to a ledge.
P5. From here you have a few options. You can go up and R (4), up to a L-facing corner(6+), or up and L (Lube Direct 9vs). I liked up.
Walk off the back and down the R side of the crag. Hike down the right side of the crag to the base.
Standard rack to #3 1/2 Friend/#3 Camalot. 60m rope useful.
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Apr 5, 2002
My old Walt Fricke guidebook has FA listed as Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960
|By Doug Dakins|
Apr 5, 2002
Did this route (or a variation of it) last summer. We climbed a fun roof above the 4th pitch at maybe 5.8. We started our 4th pitch from a small ledge above an easy face (sounds similar to Leo's description. Our 2nd pitch went slightly right through a small roof above the old manky bolt than back left into the left-facing dihedral and basically up onto a slab - full 60M pitch to a ledge system.) Look up and to the left and locate a 10-15 foot triangle looking roof. Angle up and left to the base of the roof. There is a crack with good ledges up to the the last step. Reach for some good but smaller holds on the slab and pull over onto the slab. My recollection is the pro is at your waist (good, medium-sized cam) After the roof head right and set a belay. From here, we headed straight for 1 1/4 pitches to the top with a 60m rope.
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.
The descent wasn't horrible to the west, but also wasn't pleasant.
(The heavy precipitation in April and May of this year may have contributed to the vegetation in cracks, the loose little flakes, and the overgrown walk off...).
I saw this climb listed as one of the "100 favorite local natural climbs" at Neptune so I decided to try it. I'd much rather do almost any climb at Lumpy rather than go here, so I don't understand why this one gets classic status....
On the plus side, we were the only ones on the rock all day, so if you are looking for a place less crowded than Lumpy with the same amazing views....