Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This pitch links from the 2nd pitch of The Great Zot to the beginning of Zot Face. From the 2nd belay of The Great Zot, move up the red ledge to the left-facing dihedral, and follow it up and trending slightly left to large roof (same strata as the roof on The Great Zot's 3rd pitch. Pull over at the obvious break in the roof, and follow the crack up toward a small tree where you can belay (uncomfortable). For a better belay, do a right rising traverse to just beyond a tree (30'?) where a decent ledge can be found (rope drag can be an issue).
There are a number of hollow flakes on the pitch, but all can be easily climbed around using solid hand and foot holds. The beginning dihedral takes good stoppers.
Standard rack to gold #3; one old pin just down from where you come into the roof; doubles on gold, red, and green if belaying at 1st tree.