Direct to Sweeney's
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | Ben Kiessel/Bill Grasse. FFA: Ben K. |
Page Views: | 1,321 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Bill Grasse on Apr 25, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.
Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!
We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.
06/11/2021: Ben added two bolts to this making it less run out. You will still want to place gear in some sections and for the top. See his comment below.
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