Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Apple Cider
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apple Cider 
Birthday Crack 
Chingadero 
Contortionist 
Corrections, The 
Demolition Woman 
Direct to Sweeney's 
Easy To Remember 
Green Puke 
Heros Are Hard To Find 
Matrix, The 
One Man Sex Party 
Pandora 
Punta Magna 
Slaves, The 
Sweeney's Special 
Tennis Shoe Traverse 
Texas Sucks 
Ticket to New Zealand 
Travels With Charlie 
Valhalla 
Unsorted Routes:

Direct to Sweeney's 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel/Bill Grasse. FFA: Ben K.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on Apr 25, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Climbing :)

Description 

This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.

Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!

We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.


Location 

It is 15' right of Texas Sucks.


Protection 

A double set from blue Aliens to #1 Camalots ought to do. Bring many runners and three draws as well.



Comments on Direct to Sweeney's Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
May 7, 2013

BTW, the route "We Don't Need Another Hero" isn't a top rope route, it was lead onsight for the FA. 'Bout time someone made this into a legit route.

By Ben Kiessel
May 14, 2013

Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?"

By Bill Grasse
From: Durango, CO.
Nov 2, 2013

FYI: Some rocks have disappeared from the top of this route making it more exciting than when we put it up. I would definitely say it has an R rating now.