Direct to Sweeney's
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This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.
Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!
We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.
It is 15' right of Texas Sucks.
A double set from blue Aliens to #1 Camalots ought to do. Bring many runners and three draws as well.
|Comments on Direct to Sweeney's
|By Tim Kuss|
From: Durango, CO
May 7, 2013
BTW, the route "We Don't Need Another Hero" isn't a top rope route, it was lead onsight for the FA. 'Bout time someone made this into a legit route.
|By Ben Kiessel|
May 14, 2013
Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?"
|By Bill Grasse|
From: Durango, CO.
Nov 2, 2013
FYI: Some rocks have disappeared from the top of this route making it more exciting than when we put it up. I would definitely say it has an R rating now.