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Direct South Ridge T 
Direct South Ridge, Garnet Traverse Variation T 

Direct South Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Robert Merriam, William Buckingham, W. Edward Clark, 1954
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Alec on Aug 20, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The South Ridge from the col on the approach. The...


Probably the finest route on the peak, the South Ridge provides an enjoyable passage up mostly solid, golden granite to the summit. The difficulties are not sustained, with many easy 5th class sections broken up by short 5.6-5.7 steps. The crux is likely passing through a notch on a short wall on pitch six -- a few fun, steep, well-protected moves.

We didn't do the last two pitches as the 5.8 variation looked like a more direct finish up the steep headwall near the top of the ridge. However, if following the main route, scramble to the East and up about 200 feet to avoid the steep buttress, and belay 1-2 pitches to the top.

Descent: The descent is rather complicated, but from the summit, traverse the west ridge and slowly descend to the NW. Keep angling mostly west, and follow cairns until you reach some rappel slings. Two 60-foot rappels bring you to a deep col, and from here you can scramble back down to Garnet Canyon. The exact descent trail here eluded us, but you should be able to scramble and downclimb the rest of the face, angling west. Eventually you'll reach the enormous cirque bordering the South Teton, Middle Teton and Nez Perce; and, depending on the season, it's either interminable talus and boulder-hopping or fun glissading back to the stream at the bottom of Garnet Canyon.


A long day just about any way you break it. If attempting in a day, hike up Garnet Canyon to the Platforms. From the Platforms, ascend a couloir to the SW which will put you in a gorgeous cirque. From here, traverse South, keeping about the same elevation, and eventually wrapping around the East flanks of Nez Perce. From here, Shadow Mountain looms to the South and two cols will be visible to the West, up another 1500 feet or so. Aim for the right, higher one. From this col the striking South Ridge will come into view right in front of you. Traverse 100 feet and ascend 4th class ledges until you reach a larger ledge, then traverse west. Soon you will reach a 15 foot spike in front of an obvious left-facing corner/chimney. This is the first pitch.


Standard Teton rack. No fixed anchors. Bring lots of slings.

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