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 ADVANCED
Second Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Compound, The 
Direct SE Arete T 
Dodge Block T 
Dodge Block Variation (Tunnel Route) T 
East Overhang T 
Free for All T 
Freeway T 
Gutter, The 
Koyannislotsqi 
North Crack T 
South East Arete/Second T 
South Sneak T 
Southeast Overhang T 
West Face [2nd Flatiron] T 
Yarbles, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Direct SE Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Mike Munger on May 20, 2009

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Rich climbing past the white bird guano above the ...

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts from the low point of rock, South of The Gutter and the BIG, old growth, pine tree. Follow a smooth arete straight up to an overhang with an incipient finger crack. This involves runout 5.7 slab and some 5.8 moves through the headwall on good finger locks. Getting started on the steeper rock of the headwall is probably the crux of the climb but is well-protected by a cam in a horizontal crack. The route crosses SE Arete Second at the base of the headwall and an old ring angle can be seen to the left. Belay above the headwall with a 70 meter rope. Once above the headwall, angle up right past a white bird guano stain and follow the path of least resistance to the summit with one additional belay. Along the way there is an arch that you can climb across for a little novelty.

Location 

Location; South East ridge of the Second Flatiron.
Start at the low point of rock about 40 feet South of a big, old growth, pine tree near The Gutter.
Descend by down climbing to the West.

Protection 

Typical Flatiron rack. One set of cams, a set of stoppers and long slings.


Photos of Direct SE Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Ralph Burns and Rich Perch on the first pitch of t...
Ralph Burns and Rich Perch on the first pitch of t...
Ralph Burns and Rich Perch starting the Direct SE ...
BETA PHOTO: Ralph Burns and Rich Perch starting the Direct SE ...
Ralph pulling the headwall on the SE Arete of the ...
Ralph pulling the headwall on the SE Arete of the ...
Mike crossing the arch on the SE Arete of the Seco...
Mike crossing the arch on the SE Arete of the Seco...

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