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Direct Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Whitmar & Hammack Dec. 1953
Season: dry
Page Views: 926
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Climbing the Direct Route.

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook). Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.

That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.

Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head. Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.

Location 

Starts on the pedestal just north of Lunch Rock. Rappel route from anchor bolts on the SE corner of the summit boulder.

Protection 

4 very well spaced lead bolts. Scary!

Makes sense that some semblance of belay anchor take place as a fall prior to the first bolt would have dire consequences for both the leader and belayer. Maybe take a set of gear and put something bomber in.


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By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 23, 2012

There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped)