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All Locations >
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Wheeler Crest
> Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
Direct North Ridge
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Wells Peak / Rabbit Ears
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Adam's Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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December's Children T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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God's Grace T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smokestack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,461 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Ian Nielson on Oct 5, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Ben Ditto and I climbed this route a few years ago. According to Tai Devore, it is likely a new, direct start to an old John Fisher route. This is a real deal trad climb with a demanding approach and committing climbing. There is no fixed gear. Expect a long day.
P1: Start in short right facing dihedral which turns into a right angling ramp, belay standing on an awesome knob.
P2: Continue up right angling ramp, moving left to a parallel ramp when possible. Continue up and right on this ramp to an awesome belay stance in an alcove below a scary looking flake. Don't worry, it's small.
P3: Climb up and around the flake (bomber when we climbed the route) to a large right leaning corner system. Follow cracks up the right side of the slab (dirty) to a belay at a stance on a pillar.
P4: Traverse thin crack left and up onto a slab. Move up and left to a good ledge (spicy). Belay at this ledge for your followers sake. Short pitch.
P5: Climb straight left under the slab on the dike/ledge. Belay at a good stance around the left side of the buttress where a thin crack leads up onto the slab.
P6: Climb up thin crack to an uncomfortable belay below a roof.
P7: Climbing over the roof and through the steep rock above is the physical crux of the route. It is possible that pitches 6 & 7 could be linked to avoid the uncomfortable belay at the end of pitch 6.
At this point the route wanders from left to right on the progressively narrowing ridge. We simul-climbed a good portion of the upper ridge. Great ledges if you have to bivy.
P1: Start in short right facing dihedral which turns into a right angling ramp, belay standing on an awesome knob.
P2: Continue up right angling ramp, moving left to a parallel ramp when possible. Continue up and right on this ramp to an awesome belay stance in an alcove below a scary looking flake. Don't worry, it's small.
P3: Climb up and around the flake (bomber when we climbed the route) to a large right leaning corner system. Follow cracks up the right side of the slab (dirty) to a belay at a stance on a pillar.
P4: Traverse thin crack left and up onto a slab. Move up and left to a good ledge (spicy). Belay at this ledge for your followers sake. Short pitch.
P5: Climb straight left under the slab on the dike/ledge. Belay at a good stance around the left side of the buttress where a thin crack leads up onto the slab.
P6: Climb up thin crack to an uncomfortable belay below a roof.
P7: Climbing over the roof and through the steep rock above is the physical crux of the route. It is possible that pitches 6 & 7 could be linked to avoid the uncomfortable belay at the end of pitch 6.
At this point the route wanders from left to right on the progressively narrowing ridge. We simul-climbed a good portion of the upper ridge. Great ledges if you have to bivy.
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