The entire route entails some challenging but very fun diverse climbing. The crux 10.b lies on the Seventh pitch. It is definitely a Classic and must DO!
Total of seven technical Pitches with an additional 300' feet of Class 3ish to reach the Summit proper.
Descend Class 2 via the West Ridge to the Col between Merriam and Royce. Then proceed down to Camp.
This is a Backcountry Trad route with ZERO fixed gear.
2ea MET TCU's (#1-3)
2ea MET FCU's (#4-8)
2ea WC Flexi #4 Friend
1 Set Of Stoppers
10 Alpine Slings(Draws) w/Biner's
10 Spare Biner's
2 60m Double's
|Comments on Direct North Buttress
Jul 30, 2009
That is my beta/topo photo that I put up on Summitpost. Glad to see it is getting used, because it took me a while to make it.
I thought the route was solid, and does not deserve a PG13. There is a little bit of grainyness because it doesn't get climbed that often, but there is very little loose rock. Pretty standard for Sierra granite.
The great thing about this climb is that it is all climbing. There is very little scrambling or easy 5th class.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 30, 2009
Thanks for posting!
|By Some Random Guy|
From: San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13
This route is AWESOME! I believe it would be just as poplar as the Third Pillar of Dana if not for the looooooong approach. A wee bit more moderate than Third Pillar too. My main complaint was that it was too short. I could have used a few more pitches. Very fun.
|By Dustin Stephens|
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
Great route! Especially as you get higher up. First couple pitches are somewhat dangerous and loose. Approach is burly, so be in the mood for a backpacking trip. Mosquitoes can be pretty heinous in mid-summer up until Boyce Lake.