|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||elvador on Sep 29, 2010|
|Comments on Direct Direct||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Francis Kerdevez
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
According to the printed guide, this is a 4 pitch climb but you can link pitch 1-2 and 3-4. You will need 2 ropes to rap down or use the trails to walk down.
P2: 5.5/5.6-(R ...maybe X)
P3+4: 5.6G (in the guide book there's a trad belay anchor...just link the 2 pitches. The end of P4 is bolted)
About P2: I recommend setting a belay at the first bolts you'll encounter to reduce drag to make things easier because the second pitch is about 5.5/5.6- R...maybe even X. There's a lot of loose flakes/small holds and even several loose blocks of rock during the runout. I managed to place a bomber Camalot #2 just before the half. A fall during the last 3/4 of the pitch would have horrible consequences, otherwise this pitch is a nice mental challenge and very rewarding in the end.
For the grade you get a lot of exposure and an excellent view.