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Mont Pinacle
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Direct Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: C. Lalibert.
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: elvador on Sep 29, 2010
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Breaking pitch 2 in 2 is always fun!

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Description 

1st Pitch: Ascends the right side of the wall. Expect a long but easy run-out halfway up. Start by climbing the small chimeney to the fisrt ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Then head on the right side of the face passing two fixed pins.

2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)


Location 

Follow the trail at the bottom that leads to the summit of the "pierrier" (rockfalls)... Once at the summit of the trail, Direct-Direct starts there! (45 min. from the parking)


Protection 

Good pro, nut, tricams and friends (max size = 2)



Photos of Direct Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Start of pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Start of pitch 2
Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
Pitch  1 route
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 route
The first pitch start
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch start
Crux pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Crux pitch 2
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