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Cerberus Gendarme
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Dire Wolf 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford
Season: All
Page Views: 2,504
Submitted By: Gaar on Dec 17, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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mid crux

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If your looking to break into the 5.12 trad range this is it.. Climb easy and fun 5.10- then do a 10ft boulder problem, to easy 5.10- to the chains.

In the thin section you get some foot chips and 2 okayish crimps on the right wall. Be sure not to place gear in your finger locks in the crack


5 ft right of Electra, and 30ft left of Cherry


Single set Smallest thing you own through #3 camolot.. The crux has great gear, if you dont mind climbing over a BD .1

You will need at least 2 #3 cams for the run to the anchors

Photos of Dire Wolf Slideshow Add Photo
Nice roof at start
Nice roof at start
Start of the crux
Start of the crux
Big hands the rest of the way
Big hands the rest of the way
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By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

blue aliens/ green C3's protect the crux well. the crux is awesome! get after it!

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Totally awesome rock climb - fantastic movement, great protection, and a awesome, technical crux.

Gear beta: Basically echoing what everyone else here said, brought a single #4 to protect the relatively easy face climbing out of the wide-looking pod into the section below the crux. Thin thin cams for the crux, and then hero climbing on #3 BD cams to the top.

The fixed 'biner on the anchor is starting to show some signs of wear, so if someone gets up there before me, throw a new one on, or on my next visit I'll throw some hooks or a new biner on it. May not be for a while, though...