Dire Straits 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 150 feet |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A whacky alternate start to Bishop Jaggers, this route has some nice friction climbing.
P1: Do P1 of Topographical Oceans plus, or climb the overlap/flake just left (gear), stepping right at an obvious weakness to join Topo.
P2: Climb the left line of bolts (5.8) to another anchor.
P3: Climb straight up (increasingly difficult friction, 5.10b) to the roof, and traverse down (!) and right to join Bishop Jaggers, or lower from the top bolt.
Protection Old school bolts, gear optional.
By Ray Snead
Oct 31, 2002
| You'll want gear to protect the second if you do the nutty downwards traverse. |
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jan 16, 2003
| The buttonheads and star drives protecting the third pitch are quite unsafe. A fall on the 5.10 slab before the crack in the overhang would be ill-advised. |
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Aug 4, 2003
| The first pitch is good, the second pitch is fun, and the third pitch is hard. I took several falls on the bolt at the crux of the third pitch, so it held my weight (140 pounds). I've also taken falls on other old bolts in the Platte; however, this practice not recommended! |
By Oliver Hill
Jun 2, 2013
| This is a great route that I have always felt improved by climbing up to the finish overhang and traversing across to finish up Topographical. I have done it this way twice once in 1985ish and then in 1998ish, the last time we traversed across from the last bolt before making the overhang. This way gives a lot of beautiful slab climbing of similar standard and 4 star for me. |
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