Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bishop Jaggers 
Bolts to Somewhere 
Burke Box Ball Route 
Connections 
Dire Straits 
Dos Equis 
Fuzzy Thinking 
Look out, Sarah! 
Pornographic Motions 
PTL Club 
Resurrection 
Rhythm Scratch 
RU Red I 
Sea Of Holes 
South Side Johnny 
Sposi-Isaacs Route 
Topographical Oceans 
Village People 
YMCA Right Variation 

Dire Straits 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 150'
FA: unknown
Page Views: 632
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A whacky alternate start to Bishop Jaggers, this route has some nice friction climbing.

P1: Do P1 of Topographical Oceans plus, or climb the overlap/flake just left (gear), stepping right at an obvious weakness to join Topo.

P2: Climb the left line of bolts (5.8) to another anchor.

P3: Climb straight up (increasingly difficult friction, 5.10b) to the roof, and traverse down (!) and right to join Bishop Jaggers, or lower from the top bolt.


Protection 

Old school bolts, gear optional.



Comments on Dire Straits Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ray Snead
Oct 31, 2002

You'll want gear to protect the second if you do the nutty downwards traverse.

By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jan 16, 2003

The buttonheads and star drives protecting the third pitch are quite unsafe. A fall on the 5.10 slab before the crack in the overhang would be ill-advised.

By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Aug 4, 2003

The first pitch is good, the second pitch is fun, and the third pitch is hard. I took several falls on the bolt at the crux of the third pitch, so it held my weight (140 pounds). I've also taken falls on other old bolts in the Platte; however, this practice not recommended!

By Oliver Hill
Jun 2, 2013

This is a great route that I have always felt improved by climbing up to the finish overhang and traversing across to finish up Topographical. I have done it this way twice once in 1985ish and then in 1998ish, the last time we traversed across from the last bolt before making the overhang. This way gives a lot of beautiful slab climbing of similar standard and 4 star for me.