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Dire Straights
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Muralla Grande
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Clarks Cramps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dire Straights T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Excitable Boys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Excitable Boys Headwall Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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La Selva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lawyers, Guns & Money T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Liar King T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Little Yellow Jacket T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out to Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rapture T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Second Coming, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thunderbird T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warpy Moople T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard |
| Page Views: | 1,711 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | John Kear on Apr 26, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This climb starts at the same place as Warpy Moople and La Selva.
Pitch 1: Follow the first pitch of Warpy Moople and La Selva.
Pitch 2: Continue up the 2nd pitch of La Selva for 100ft. Where La Selva starts to traverse to the left, continue straight up for an additional 40-50 ft. There are a couple different ledges from which to belay.
Pitch 3: This pitch is actually a variation called A Straight Line Named Desire. It was put up by Elijah Lynn in the late Nineties. This pitch climbs a short thin lieback to a horizontal, traverse left then more liebacking to gain an arete, the pitch can be accessed from the right or left. Once on the arete, clip a bolt and climb up to a shallow crack past another bolt and pin. Continue up to a nice little ledge directly below Dire Straights crux pitch (sustained 10-). A #4 Camalot is nice for the belay.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up off the belay and into the right to left under cling/lieback arch. Crank your way up to a belay ledge after the difficulties (60-70ft). From here you can climb straight up a relatively easy corner system and work your way left to join the finish for La Selva. Alternatively you can climb up off the belay for 20 ft then do a cool traverse right to the next corner system which is most likely the original finish to Out to Lunch. The corner is an interesting combination of stemming and liebacking. The pitch ends at a nice ledge after 150ft. We did another nice pitch straight up to the top of the Muralla via a crack system that split a steep yellow buttress (5.9).
Pitch 1: Follow the first pitch of Warpy Moople and La Selva.
Pitch 2: Continue up the 2nd pitch of La Selva for 100ft. Where La Selva starts to traverse to the left, continue straight up for an additional 40-50 ft. There are a couple different ledges from which to belay.
Pitch 3: This pitch is actually a variation called A Straight Line Named Desire. It was put up by Elijah Lynn in the late Nineties. This pitch climbs a short thin lieback to a horizontal, traverse left then more liebacking to gain an arete, the pitch can be accessed from the right or left. Once on the arete, clip a bolt and climb up to a shallow crack past another bolt and pin. Continue up to a nice little ledge directly below Dire Straights crux pitch (sustained 10-). A #4 Camalot is nice for the belay.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up off the belay and into the right to left under cling/lieback arch. Crank your way up to a belay ledge after the difficulties (60-70ft). From here you can climb straight up a relatively easy corner system and work your way left to join the finish for La Selva. Alternatively you can climb up off the belay for 20 ft then do a cool traverse right to the next corner system which is most likely the original finish to Out to Lunch. The corner is an interesting combination of stemming and liebacking. The pitch ends at a nice ledge after 150ft. We did another nice pitch straight up to the top of the Muralla via a crack system that split a steep yellow buttress (5.9).
Location
The route climbs the middle left side of Muralla Grande. Start the climb at a nice ledge below a left facing corner with double cracks (the same pitch as for all routes in this sector of the wall). The crux pitches climb the right most arch and the nice face leading up to the arch that characterize this section of the wall.
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