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West Side- Backbone Ridge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Warmup 
Bane of Vince, The 
Battle of the Bulge 
Belly of the Beast 
bottom of the barrel  
crack 
Dangle 
Dire Straight 
Early Bird 
Eighteen (and life) 
Face Left of Wright's Arete 
first things first 
Forgotten Finger Crack  
Layback Crack Attack 
Leaning Rock 
Left out 
Me So Gorny 
Me So Gorny Direct...AKA Don't Commit! The Footchip You Are On Is Broken!  
Midwest Hardcore (aka 6hrs) 
Mr. Clean 
Nameless 
Nameless Slab 
Picasso center 
Picasso Left 
Picasso Pillar 
Picasso Right 
Picasso way left 
Product of the Southwest 
Prostrator, The 
Sandstone Violence 
Scarete 
Seventeen 
Take My Picture 
Topshelf 
Trail Crew 
Twelve 
Twelve A 
Udaho 
Vitamin V-less 
Wright's Arete 

Dire Straight 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on Dec 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: I totally screwed up and didn't take a pic of the ...

Description 

Start by using both cracks. Deep fingers get you into the climb. Climb past wobbly block on right. The right crack becomes to small to get fingers in and the left crack stops for a bit. Layback the small arete on the right crack and move up. Reachy moves to topout. The crux is in your mind. This thing gets scary.


Location 

the 2 cracks left of "Midwest Hardcore"


Protection 

2-4 pads



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 4, 2008
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2008

John good work man, the cracks are super fun and no doubt scary, but has been climbed before by many. No one really knows who the FA is of this, maybe Groth and company in the day? Since it was never posted you get naming rights.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2008

John definitely had the first and only ascent of November 29th, 2008 though. With authority! I proposed naming it "50 Words for Choss" but was apparently ignored.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2008

So John sandbagged everyone eh. I like your name Chris, although Dire Straight is a good description of the route.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2008

Well, after watching/spotting John on it I think everyone kind of just left it at that... He was pulling on some pretty wobbly blocks and hollow-sounding flakes... Nice send.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 3, 2008

Thx for the info Remo. FA has been changed.

Actually Chris, I thought about your name for a bit, and then decided it needed something....more.

If you avoid the wobbly block in the beginning, and also avoid the flake in the top of the crack to the right (there's and "X" on it in the pic), it's all good.

I gave it a decent scrubbin' before we left for the day.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 3, 2008

Just messin' John. I'll save "50 Words for Choss" for my next FA. There is plenty of choss at the Dodge, I am sure I'll find a line to christen. With this snow though it might have to wait until spring...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 3, 2008

LOL. So was I.

No need to be afraid of a little snow. Paul and I figured if we bring a large tarp to put the pads down on and keep the area we are in dry, we can boulder all winter long when the temps are right.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Dec 3, 2008

I like the way you think. Count me in!

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 3, 2008

Rockin! PM me your phone number and I will call you when we think about going.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 3, 2008

Count me in guys. A little snow never hurt anybody right? The friction is just too good in below freezing temps to pass up.

By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Dec 3, 2008

Just remember to bring your snow brooms!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2008

i think with some rock surfaces you can take blowtorches to them to melt ice ect.? is that not recomended with sandstone or doesnt it matter? or is that not recomended at all?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 4, 2008

You got it Remo. Any other takers? I'll be picking up a 20ft x 20ft tarp this week.

sweaty, I have no idea about the blow torch thing.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Dec 4, 2008

I've used the blowtorch technique on granite and it has worked well. Not sure about sandstone, however. Exfoliation would be a major concern. As a rule, never blowtorch flakes or other loose-ish holds because they'll break off if heated.

Now if we were talking about DL quartzite, I think you could use a flamethrower and the rock would be fine.

By SteveSchultz
Dec 4, 2008

I've used the torch at DL but I'd hold off at dodge. The rock is already soft and sandy and heating it would make it worse. Plus, many of the holds would be soaked through and more likely to break off anyways. I'd vote for saving the winter runs for the lake.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 4, 2008

kind of what I figured. word up.