Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dire Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dire Spire Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.88032, -103.4617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,249
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002


28° | 17°

35° | 20°

44° | 23°

49° | 28°

51° | 27°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Dire Spire from the highway. Snakebite Evangelist...

Check NPS for Closures


Dire Spire is the impressive spire that looks like an evil pitchfork just past Mt Rushmore. There are a few sport routes on it, but the only way to tag the summit is an old-fashioned Needles runout pitch. This is my favorite summit at Rushmore.

Getting There 

Park in a pullout below the spire, and bushwhack up to the base. This is one of the worst approaches at Rushmore, though it still doesn't take more than 20 minutes or so. Be careful not to stray into the signed off limits area - doing so will get you a huge fine and will probably get the area closed.

Climbing Season

For the Emancipation area.

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dire Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dire Spire:
Conn Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Impeachable Offense   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
The Engagement   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dire Spire

Featured Route For Dire Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Snakebite Evangelist from the road. Route follows ...

Snakebite Evangelist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Dire Spire
Beautiful line on the steep, vibrant side of Dire Spire. Lots of liebacking up the left facing, left leaning "crack". Crux is in the first quarter followed by a decent rest at halfway. Then pumpy 5.11 liebacking to an exciting redpoint crux right before the anchors. This is a stout 13a, in my opinion, and one of the best with awesome exposure. And the large belay ledge makes for a great hang....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Dire Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit
Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Back Side of Dire Spire
BETA PHOTO: Back Side of Dire Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire and George
Dire Spire and George
Rock Climbing Photo: Dire Spire Sunset
Dire Spire Sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Rafferty and John Lang working on a ground up...
Mark Rafferty and John Lang working on a ground up...

Comments on Dire Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Dewell
May 8, 2003
Is 'Snakebite Evangelist' open? With the closings and everything around the monument? What kind of gear does it take? How many bolts? Isn't there a funky anchor to belay off of? Anyone?

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!