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 ADVANCED
Dire Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dire Spire  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.88032, -103.4617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,667
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
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Description 

Dire Spire is the impressive spire that looks like an evil pitchfork just past Mt Rushmore. There are a few sport routes on it, but the only way to tag the summit is an old-fashioned Needles runout pitch. This is my favorite summit at Rushmore.

Getting There 

Park in a pullout below the spire, and bushwhack up to the base. This is one of the worst approaches at Rushmore, though it still doesn't take more than 20 minutes or so. Be careful not to stray into the signed off limits area - doing so will get you a huge fine and will probably get the area closed.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.7 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dire Spire:
Conn Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Impeachable Offense   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
The Engagement   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Dire Spire

Featured Route For Dire Spire
Snakebite Evangelist from the road. Route follows the prominent left leaning "crack" through tan rock.

Snakebite Evangelist 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Dire Spire
Beautiful line on the steep, vibrant side of Dire Spire. Lots of liebacking up the left facing, left leaning "crack". Crux is in the first quarter followed by a decent rest at halfway. Then pumpy 5.11 liebacking to an exciting redpoint crux right before the anchors. This is a stout 13a, in my opinion, and one of the best with awesome exposure. And the large belay ledge makes for a great hang....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Dire Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Back Side of Dire Spire
BETA PHOTO: Back Side of Dire Spire
Dire Spire from the highway.  Snakebite Evangelist climbs the obvious steep crack, the Engagement climbs the dark face to the right, and the Conn route starts on the back side.
BETA PHOTO: Dire Spire from the highway. Snakebite Evangelist...
Dire Spire Sunset
Dire Spire Sunset
Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit
Dire Spire from the Middle Marker summit

Comments on Dire Spire Add Comment
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By Dan Dewell
May 8, 2003
Is 'Snakebite Evangelist' open? With the closings and everything around the monument? What kind of gear does it take? How many bolts? Isn't there a funky anchor to belay off of? Anyone?