Dire Prospects (aka Unnamed 5.10a)
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BETA PHOTO: Its got eye appeal, anyway.
This is a short, though cruxy, climb behind the Prospect Point Pinnacle. The guidebook description: Overhang with two cracks above.
The route begins under a low, deep overhang. Begin with an undercling and a sidepull. A nut can be placed from the ground, and another can be placed from the first move. After this, protection is difficult/impossible, as all those beautiful-looking finger pods are actually flaring downwards and outwards.
A series of liebacks and hand bumps leads to a couple weird crimps, then the route follows easy (5.6) blocks to the top. An OK cam can be placed in the obvious large crack near the top.
It is Route #9 in Sven's guide under Prospect Point Rampart. From the West Bluff Trail where you can see Prospect Point Pinnacle, walk down and around onto the highest platform. There are several ~25 ft. climbs here.
Standard rack. Offsets recommended. Don't be surprised if you only place 2-3 pieces.