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The bolted line on the mottled face just right of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route. This route starts at the belay ledge at the top of the Ellsworth-McQuarrie 2nd pitch and climbs 2 pitchs to meet back up with the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route.
From the Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay ledge, climb up and right to clip your first bolt. 6 bolts up this face and 100' of somewhat spacey, 5.10 climbing on crumbly rock brings you to another ledge (where the next Ellsworth-McQuarrie belay is located). Continue climbing up a thin crack (a .4 can be placed here). The Piton at the top of this crack is missing so bring micros and cross your fingers. Traverse to the right and clip the next bolt. 4 more bolts and up through the 10d crux brings you to the 2 bolt belay. A few more bolts and some gear will bring you to the Ellsworth-McQuarrie pitch 5 anchors. A 60 meter rope will get you down fine.
Don't let the crumbly rock deter you! It's not quite as bad as the top of Ellsworth-McQuarrie. Get out there and test your finesse on those flexing flakes...
Same gear as for Ellsworth-McQuarrie, and maybe a couple of micros or RPs + 10 draws for bolts.
Eric working those delicate moves on Dire Direct
Me leading Dire Direct
|By Tyler King|
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 6, 2010
Sorry about the missing piton, it is now my souvenir. You wouldn't have wanted to fall, or take on it anyway, trust me!
Jun 6, 2010
Speaking from experience?