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Lower Major Mass
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Archeopteryx 
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Dippy Diagonal 
Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) 
Earnings Summary 
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Seventh Buttress 5-1/2 
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Sure Shot 
TM Overhang 
West Michigan 
Wicker Man 

Dippy Diagonal 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,322
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 3, 2002
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Jim on Dippy

Description 

Dippy Diagonal is a nice hand jam crack located west of the Keyhole below the South Platform. Climb up crack about 3 feet right of the inside corner (Kenosis, rt# 63). The wall gets steeper toward the top of the crack. Either stop at the large ledge or continue up to the top on Kenosis.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Dippy Diagonal Slideshow Add Photo
The start of Dippy D.
The start of Dippy D.
From the top of Dippy you can follow the rope line in this pic to the left and over a gully to a nice second pitch with 5.8 climbing. You can see Rhoads at the crux of the second pitch with about 30ft of route hidden from view.
BETA PHOTO: From the top of Dippy you can follow the rope line...
Hard Times (59), Wicker Man (61), Dippy Diagonal (62), Kenosis (63), and Sure Shot (64)
BETA PHOTO: Hard Times (59), Wicker Man (61), Dippy Diagonal (...
Dippy Diagonal is the clearly defined crack in the middle of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: Dippy Diagonal is the clearly defined crack in the...
Not thats what I call a good nut placement!
Not thats what I call a good nut placement!
Dunbar
Dunbar
Looking down on the upper half of Dippy Diagonal.
Looking down on the upper half of Dippy Diagonal.
Comments on Dippy Diagonal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2011
By Craig McCudden
May 20, 2003

This right here is a SWEET moderate lead, Gobbles up nuts, & hold Galore.

It's a little off the beaten path but worth the effort to find it.

By Jim McGuire
Dec 12, 2003

A very well protected lead indeed as is Kenosis as well, but I would characterize the crack as more hand size than finger.

By Ian Schmit
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Definitely a hand crack. Great stances every few feet to place gear. Protects well with nuts and hexes. Excellent moderate lead.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The first time I climbed this route, I led it on-sight and it felt a little stiffer than 5.7. Now after TRing it several times I agree that it's Devil's Lake 5.7. For new leaders, Kenosis 5.4 the inside corner right to the left is a good beginner's lead and you can set up TR and play on Dippy after you top out.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I just led this on sight tonight. I didn't have my guide book, but it looked like a great line. And it sure was! I agree that it felt a bit harder than 5.7

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 21, 2008

I remember this as being pure fun, plain and simple... While in the area check out Hammer Crack too. Step it up just a bit with TM Overhang.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 22, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I was actually headed there for TM overhang, but felt like leading something instead. I can climb 5.10 pretty comfortably, but I haven't lead anything over 5.9 yet. I will get back there for TM overhang for sure. My buddy still wants to do Dippy Diagonal after I told him how good it was.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 8, 2008

Pro: great route to use your hexes on.

By Sarah K
From: St. Paul, MN
May 19, 2009

A little tough for a beginner leader. Many places to put a #3 camalot.

By Alex A
Apr 15, 2010

Good pro, fun, These was rated 5.6 then I 1ST lead it, it's hard for a 5.7

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

its just a shame this crack doesnt continue for more than 25 '

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This route is harder than Jolly Roger though not as exposed- still, an entertaining lead with very good hand jams and protection.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 11, 2011

We were able to link a three pitch climb starting with Dippy, and ending with Angel Crack. Super fun little alpine adventure with lots of options to explore.

By Tradoholic
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I hammered out a stuck #3 C4 the other day on this and it reminded me that I see quite a few people never clipping runners to their cams, just one biner to the cam sling. Do that often and your cam will eventually walk and get stuck.

To the owner of the #3, it's hammered to death but still functional, I think I'm going to send it into BD for strength testing.