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Lower Major Mass
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Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) 
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Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Season: All Year (good shady place in mid summer)
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Jun 8, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Dippy Diagonal right variation marked.

Description 

Climb first portion of Dippy Diagonal. At ledge climb just a few feet more of DD then start climbing rightwards and upwards into parallel crack line up into alcove and through roofish thing. Climbing is a full letter grade harder then DD and a full letter grade more tricky as well.
Pro placements a noticably harder to find and place but they are there and good. The moves to get onto the slabish thing at the bottom of the alcove are the crux for sure.


Location 

Major Mass Dippy Diagonal face.


Protection 

Hand sized cams in the lower section (as per Dippy Diagonal) then the small wires and TCU cams in middle section... more larger cams to top out.



Photos of Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) Slideshow Add Photo
Dylan Colon cranking The Dipster Direct. Dylan Colon demonstrationing he IS capable of proper lead climbing rope management.
Dylan Colon cranking The Dipster Direct. Dylan Col...
Comments on Dippy Diagonal Variation Right (AKA the Dipster) Add Comment
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 8, 2011

Do you think it's possible to stay out of Dippy Diagonal entirely even at the start? Just start on faint crack system to the right of DD to begin and finish per The Dipster.

By Tradoholic
Jun 8, 2011

It is I have checked it out but didn't lead it. The question is, can you get to it before I do?

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 8, 2011

Probably not Rhoads. I'm out of commission for a while with a bum elbow... but if the notion strikes me to do something to spite you, I'll be on it. Keep me posted.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 13, 2011

It will go direct but with less protection options and even harder climbing.

By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I got the send, onsight. good route, nice eye Burt! Felt he was spot on with the grade, and with the pro description.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 15, 2011

Now, I'll get in there and lead Dippy Diagonal Double Direct. Nice work, Strong. We gotta climb soon before you fools head off to the tower and before we fools head out to VEGAS.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 16, 2011

So Ryan? You don't think The Dipster Direct doesn't maybe get a slighty harder grading? Is it still 5.8? Way to go. This one is on my list for fall.

By Tradoholic
Oct 1, 2011

Still 5.8 avoiding the Dippy crack entirely.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 6, 2011

Felt like a 5.9 move pulling above the first horizontal on "The Diptser Direct" to me...there is no feet and gotta pull small sloper in the crack... felt 5.9 but just the one move...