Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Claude Fiddler
Page Views: 4,102 total · 17/month
Shared By: Paolo Milana on Nov 19, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

In my opinion the best route of Diablo. Climbs a series of very small crimps immediately right of "Diagonal Crack". Offers a wide variety of face moves including side-pulls, mantles, and high-stepping on tiny holds. Arrange long anchor slings if you want to avoid the final runout mantle on loose rock. Reminiscent of J.Tree climbing.

The first bolt is a solid 15' high, so consider pre-clipping.

 

Protection Suggest change

Eight bolts (6" glue-ins; 2021); or nine if you clip the last bolt on Miwok at the top. Mussy hooks to lower off.

For top rope, the anchors may be accessed by a short rap off a tree. Watch out for poison oak up there.

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