Stick clip for hard moves right off the ground. Step up and lay away a short steep crack to a a very positive shelf. Keep with it until you've pulled over the shelf and made the second clip then jug haul the gently overhanging wall into a crack to finish. This is a fun and pumpy route, but don't underestimate the opening moves.
Far north end of Lilly Bluff above the old walk up from the road.
Bolts to ring anchors.
|By Travis Griggs|
Mar 4, 2013
This route doesn't get as much traffic as the nearby Paraphernalia (5.10b/c), but I always thought Dino Jr was the better route. I highly recommend you stickclip the first bolt. If you blow the cruxy opening moves -- a powerful layback and slap to the shelf -- you'll end up crashing down off-balance onto a large pointy bolder.
The climbing eases substantially higher on the route, but the pump can sneak up on you during the final steep moves to the anchors. Good route.