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Dinky Doinks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
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Enjoying some deep knee bends on the way up 'Dinky...

Description 

Probably the best route on the wall. This is the most obvious crack line up the east face, the third from the left. Climb up on locks and jams though solid moves to the top. Good pro, good rack, good fun at a moderate grade. Not much winter sun on this though.


Protection 

A standard light rack.



Photos of Dinky Doinks Slideshow Add Photo
Fun jams and good good make 'Dinky Doinks' a must do while around the Freeway Wall area.
Fun jams and good good make 'Dinky Doinks' a must ...
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By vincent L.
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

bring big pieces for the anchor. there are no rap rings on this formation. you can scramble down the back.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 24, 2006

A perfect anchor can be had by simply looping the rope around a block - use your big pieces on the route, where the crack widens at the bottom.

By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Jun 12, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I thought this route was good fun, though I can't see how some might consider it 5.7. The moves through the crux seemed a bit more difficult than I expected, but whatever. Winger's guidebook had me more concerned about the down climb - which was not that big of a deal... definitely fourth classish, I have have seen WAY more "interesting" descents in Josh.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 13, 2010

Really liked this one, although not sustained. The pure crack crux jams at the bottom of this climb will test your technique, but are totally sinker. After that, fun, easy, juggy face.

I built the belay with a .5, 1, and 2 Camalot. 4th class downclimb is nothing to be concerned about, especially in comparison to other ones at Joshua Tree.

This would be a great climb to teach someone how to hand jam on.

By BrendanC
From: Sherman oaks, ca
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Felt like solid 5.8 to me. Crux is the 10-15 feet of pure/perfect hands right off the bat. If this section was any longer I might even vote for 5.9. Great pro the whole way. Very fun route. Walk off is fine, but I'd say there is a 5.0 move or two to get into the gulley.

By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Crux jams right off the deck, then pure fun.

By Vitaliy
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c