Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jeep Gaskin with either John Borstelmann or Jeff Burton, 1979
Page Views: 16,768 total · 84/month
Shared By: Brie Abram on Oct 17, 2007
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

A vote here for one of the best 5.10 traditional face climbs in the state! The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runout near the top after the route turns less difficult and more slabby. Finish at a sloping ledge with a double bolt anchor.

The Select guidebook claims the second pitch as the crux, but the first pitch seems to be more sustained and delicate.

Location Suggest change

Scramble up toward the golden-brown rock to the left of Rat's Ass to an often rattler-infested ledge below Unfinished Concerto. Dinkus Dog begins to the left, off a slab, beneath the right end of a small roof.

Protection Suggest change

The gear on this climb is very good, with bomber placements at decent stances at least every 10 feet or so. Double Camalots from .3 to 2 works great. The route doesn't wander too much, so long slings aren't really necessary, except maybe on a piece at the roof, of course. There are rings at bolts at the top of the second pitch to rap off of with double 60 meter ropes.

Take 2-3 more Camalots in the .75 to 2 range if you choose to do it all as one pitch.

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