BETA PHOTO: Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resoluti...
Dinkum is the quality finger crack on the south face of Buck's Bar Dome. You can easily spot it as you take the path down towards the main area. Begin by climbing a 14' flake then the finger fun begins!
Pro to 1 inch. You may also hang a top rope from the bolted anchors above dinkum. Walk around to the left to get atop Buck's Bar Dome. The anchors for Dinkum are second from the right when you're looking down.
By Paul Rezucha From: Alameda Jul 6, 2005 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
This is a wonderful route to lead as the crack takes great gear! Easy climbing to top of "pillar" where two cracks meet. Small stoppers protect the thin finger crack above but footholds are small so placements are a bit strenous. A large cam (3.5 or 4) slides in nicely where the crack widens and then a long reach off a jam gets you to easier ground. A very fun climb!
By Nathan L. Feb 9, 2006 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
One of the better routes and a good lead problem. But more like 5.8+ on lead and 5.8 TR if your not competing with the crack for gear.
This sounds trivial but is very important to me - I left my brown flip flops at the base of this route on Saturday, Jan 8th.. if anyone sees them can you stash them somewhere for me and email about it? email@example.com THANKS.
Dinkum is short but very quality. The crux is a great intro to what polished finger cracks are like for those getting into trad. Remembering my own days of "getting into it," you can set a toprope easily enough, but may want to set a backup by slinging the tree above the climb first... It's also a fun thing to come back and lead (or do 40 lb pack laps) later. In fact, myself and most everybody I know does 40 lb pack laps on this rig. It's pretty casual. If you don't have the pack, you can always substitute a beer gut.
By stuart.h From: Redwood City May 9, 2013 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
One move, finger job
It's short and doesn't last long, so to prolong the fun, put in lots of pro the first 10ft from the pedestal and it will give you a good pump.
Took my first fall on pro on this climb. Reach high for a solid nut placement before moving up the sustained 10 foot finger crack section then move quickly to reach the wide section. High quality and challenging route.