Type: Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Antoine Savelli & Teri Savelli, 1986
Page Views: 1,777 total · 14/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is the first multi-pitch bolted route put up in 1986. It was very controversial at that time.

It is left of Hot Wee Wee and right of Dr. Gizmo.

First pitch: climb dead center on slab, clipping 3 bolts, climb over a roof, 6c+ or 5.11d passing a fixed pin to belay.

The second pitch goes diagonally left and upwards towards first crux at 8a or 5.13b and then to an easier crux. It is all on bolts at 7a+/7b or 5.12b/c and goes to double bolt anchors.

Third pitch: traverse right to a 6b or 5.11a move, then straight to a short 6a or 5.10b traverse on some bolts and natural pro, finishing on buckets: it is beautiful and exposed.

Location Suggest change

This is on the left Main Ophir Wall, right of Dr. Gizmo and left of Hot Wee Wee.

Protection Suggest change

10 clips, bring a small single rack from RPs to #3 Friend.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading