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 ADVANCED
North and West Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better than Bitter S 
Broken Thumb T 
cTr S 
Diminishing Returns T 
Falling Apart at the Seams T 
Flamin' Freddie T 
Guilt Trip T 
Hollow Man S 
Nuthin' Tuff T 
On a Whim T 
Pins and Knickers T 
Tuff Enough T 
Tuff'n Up S 
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 
Wrecking Ball S 

Diminishing Returns 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1987
Page Views: 1,613
Submitted By: John Bradford on Apr 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the Diminishing Returns pillar, and I thin...

Description 

A short and difficult route. Sometimes you just have to go for it.

Protection 

A small TCU helps protect the opening moves. Otherwise 3 bolts to anchors

Location 

The bolted route right of Winky and Waxman Go Bolting and a bit up the talus. It climbs a pillar-like chunk of quartzite.


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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 5, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A BD #8 or a yellow Metolius will protect the initial moves. If this route is a 5.11b then Winky and Waxman is like a 5.10b. This is considerably harder than I expected, but I wasn't climbing real well. The line seemed a bit contrived as well. Not a bad line, just not anything special.
By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
Jan 28, 2008

I definitely agree, much harder than winky and waxman. Some fun moves in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt...but be careful, the 3rd bolt is sketchy
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 26, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Agreed. This is more difficult than W&W. But that's because W&W is only 10b. This is what a quartzite 11b feels like.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Yes, harder than Waxman, but no, W&W is not a 10b! But, yes W&W is soft for 11b. DR is not too bad if you know the beta. If you don't know the sequence it will be MUCH harder. My climbing partner fought at the first move. After we figured out the beta he went again and was amazed how much easier it was than he had thought.

Great reachy moves! Don't miss this climb if you are in the area. It is very consistent through the whole climb. Think of it as a bolted boulder problem.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Fun climb that should be done more often. The moves are fun, and if your a wimp like me your pumped arms will make the crux just that much more fun.
By Peter Hayes
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Spoiler Alert!...so, if you want that on-sight, then do not read on...Just remember to keep right of the protection, and the rating stays at .11b. And, this route -true to its grade- is significantly harder than "W&WGB". I headed left after the last bolt on my on-sight attempt and took a 20+ footer, yanking my little belayer off the deck. An inattentive belayer could deck a leader who flicks on the this route, especially if they lose it at the top, so choose your partner wisely!