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Sam Schmetzer sending "Diluted"
This fun climb wanders a bit up the rock and if you get off route you end up on a gnarly 5.13, so stay to the left when the bolts fork. I remember the crux coming at around the 6th bolt where you have to pull on a flake, on overhanging (slightly) terrain.
Here is the tricky part. Since the flood I have not been up this climb so the start may be 10-12 feet higher, therefore different. But it starts in a prominant diahedral before making its way out onto the face but never drifting to far from the diahedral (don't get sucked in). Look for the diahedral just to the left (south) of the huge roof.
8-9 bolts to chains.
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Description is a little off. A cool line that deserves more traffic.
Start up "Good Girls Shave Twice" to the second to last bolt but don't clip it, instead look for the bolt on the face to the right which protects the moves getting onto "Delusions". Traverse right onto and finish up the permadraws to the chain anchor of "Delusions".