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Unsorted Routes:

Dillinger 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: MJM, May 2005
Page Views: 1,655
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Oct 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Moving into the crux.

Description 

Start up using the face on the right and holds on the detached, 8-foot pillar to the left to gain a good stance to clip the high first bolt. Follow more bolts making fun face moves on sharp rock. The apparent crux comes about half way up when moving up the face from a good ledge in a shallow dihedral. I tried not to use the right wall of the dihedral to "keep it real" but ended up putting a foot out there. Easier climbing leads to the anchors just above a small roof.


Location 

This is the first route to the right of Shelfish starting slightly behind a small detached pillar.


Protection 

9 bolts to two bolts with rap rings for the anchor.



Photos of Dillinger Slideshow Add Photo
At the crux.
At the crux.
Joshua high on Dillinger.
Joshua high on Dillinger.
At the last clip.
At the last clip.
Dillinger.
BETA PHOTO: Dillinger.
Stepping off the pillar at the start.
Stepping off the pillar at the start.
John. Dillinger.
John. Dillinger.
Comments on Dillinger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Strauser
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Dec 13, 2010

I believe there are now more routes between Shelfish and Dillinger.

By slim
Administrator
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Some fun climbing on this one, although the holds at the top seem pretty fragile and you have a ledge below you.

By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
Feb 28, 2011

The BR & Brandon route depicted by MJM (those are my initials too) is named Knot Too Many Roaches.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 4, 2013

Great early morning warm-up to avoid the crowds of Cactus! Everything was pretty solid from what I could tell, as well! Start from the spire on the left (which I think is the more fun way) or on the right!