Dillard Arete 5.12b
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Andrew Mcdowell, Nathan Brown 2011 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | nbrown on Jan 25, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: The upper 3/4 of the route, just above where the f...
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Description This route (generally) climbs the arete of the popular "Hypocrites Corner". It involves 3 pitches of fairly hard and exposed climbing, and should be on the tick list of the arete aficionado.
I must credit Andrew for having put the final bit of work into finishing this route after we abandoned it at the end of last season. He also did the redpoint of all 3 pitches of this one.
P-1
There used to be 2 starts, a left one and a right one. The left one is now the start for "Clippidy Doodah". The right one is the standard way - it starts by standing in a rhodo branch and climbing up and slightly right on slab past a couple bolts to easier ground and a 3rd bolt. Move up and further right past a 4th bolt and over to the arete and some medium cams. Continue up the excellent arete past several more bolts to the great belay ledge and a bolted anchor.
P-2
Climb the obvious bolted line and then make the awkward crux moves rightward to large holds and a larger cam. Continue up and left on jugs past more gear, a bolt, and a slung horn to a stance. Make some final slabby moves up to the ledge and belay on bolts.
P-3
Move belayer to the right a little. Traverse up and right past 2 bolts to a short dihedral with gear. Step right onto the short arete past a couple bolts and the crux to easier ground. Continue up easier ground past a bolt and med cams to the top.
Location Climbs the arete left of Hypocrtites Corner. Starts down and left of the actual arete due to a blank start, but traverses onto it at about 1/3 height.
Protection normal sized rack up to #4 camelot (for 2nd pitch)
First pitch of Dillard Arete.
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch is visible to the right of the bus...
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BETA PHOTO: Topo
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BETA PHOTO: Another beta photo for the upper section. I ripped...
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Pitch 1 arete
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p1
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| Comments on Dillard Arete |
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By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Jan 26, 2012
| I will also add that the route can be rapelled with a single 60m rope if one person is willing to rappel off a single 1/2" x 4" Hilti kwik bolt with a quick link on it about 40 feet off the ground (the 5th bolt). The other two pitches are just under 100 feet long. This route is really unique for LK with the overhanging climbing on steep jugs in addition to some stellar pure arete climbing. |
By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Feb 24, 2012
| 5th bolt on pitch 3 does exist now. |
By andjoely
From: Clemson, SC
Apr 21, 2012
| I repeated the route recently and I have a few more comments. Be prepared for doing thin cruxes of p1 with your feet several feet above bolts and easy runouts at the start of that pitch. p2 is fun jugs with a tricky crux but there is a half inch bolt right at the crux. The crux of p3 is a tricky and very wierd arete liebacking boulder problem that may be like v4+ or v5 so the rating of 11d is probably a sandbag - 12a or b might be more appropriate, but you could aid or hangdog through it easily. This crux could be harder if you are much shorter than me (5' 10"). Would definitely recommend the route to somebody looking to do something hard and steep. All the gear placements are marked on the topo so you can go light and not hike in with more crap than you need. |
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